Forget the Seine: Jump into Amsterdam’s waterways for a perfect swimming holiday

Amsterdam is a city of water. The capital city of the Netherlands has 165 canals, stretching more than 60 miles, and it often feels like there’s more grachten than streets. Amsterdam is also flush with lakes, harbours, and islands, not to mention the Amstel, the river that gives the city its name. There’s water everywhere, and the best part? You can swim in almost all of it.

A city looks and feels different when you’re in its water. Parisians have been flocked to the Seine this summer to get in their river for the first time in 100 years, thanks to focused efforts to clean it up. Sewage overspills are still an issue in Paris though – this is a problem every major city has to solve before people can safely swim.

But Amsterdam is ahead of most, having spent the past 20 years fixing up its sewage system and securing compliance from the many houseboats. On top of that, the canals are regularly flushed.

Overflows can still happen, and the rule of thumb is to avoid getting into urban waters for 48 hours after a big rain. But the rest of the time a healthy person can safely swim – after all, thousands of people join the Amsterdam City Swim charity event in the Amstel every September.

The City of Amsterdam trusts you to be sensible about the water. There are seven official open water swimming locations, but it’s generally legal to swim as long as there are no notices to the contrary.

There is a very important caveat, though: be considerate of other water users, for their sake as well as your own. That means never swim in a boat lane, as the boats won’t be able to see you, and they couldn’t stop even if they did. Never jump or dive in – there are a lot of rusting bikes hiding in the depths, and make sure you have a ladder in sight for getting out.

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Swimming in Amsterdam is almost always at your own risk, as the waters are deep and there are often no lifeguards. Try to avoid becoming a statistic about tourists behaving badly and keep your dip to cordoned-off areas, or to the side of the very widest stretches of canal – if in doubt, follow the locals. And if you’ve sampled the devil’s lettuce, as is legal in Amsterdam, stay on dry land.

From above, the water looks like a dense, silty brown, but when you’re in it, it turns translucent and golden. Once you’ve seen Amsterdam from this special vantage point, you’ll never look at the watery city the same again. Here are the best places to swim in Amsterdam.

The harbour: Marineterrein

A firm favourite, Marineterrein is a harbour basin lined with boardwalks, meaning you don’t have to worry about boat traffic. The water is also frequently tested. Nice stretches of lawn give way to even nicer expanses of water, making it a great place to hang out with friends. The water is deep, but convenient ladders make this a relaxing place to cool off for anyone who’s a strong swimmer, all within view of classic Amsterdam houses and boats.

Where to find it: Marineterrein is at Kattenburgerstraat 5, a little east of Centraal train station – look for the boardwalk.

The canal: Admiralengracht

Swimming in an Amsterdam canal is a real treat, but comes with great responsibility – there are a lot of boats. On a hot day there will be people in the water seemingly everywhere, but people tend to avoid swimming downtown past the canal belt (inside Singel), as it’s too hectic – just steer clear.

The recommended spot is Admiralengracht, a wide stretch of canal in Bos en Lommer that borders Erasmuspark. Look for stairs or an impromptu ladder in the water and keep your wits about you for a good time.

Where to find it: Make your way to Erasmuspark – Admiralengracht is the wide stretch of canal just to the east.

The docklands: Bogortuin on Java Island

Taking the free ferry from Centraal station across the IJ waters to the Noord district always comes highly recommended, not least because the area is full of stairs where you can step down for a dip.

A local favourite is Bogortuin on Java Island, a quiet residential enclave in the IJ bay, where the lawn fills up with bathers on hot days. This is a great place to hang out with friends, family and kids who are strong swimmers.

Where to find it: Java Island lies in the IJ and is part of Amsterdam’s brackish waterfront. There are lots of stairs but Bogortuin is a local favourite.

The lake: Grote Vijver in Amsterdamse Bos

Rent a Dutch upright bicycle and head for Amsterdamse Bos, the city woods, where you can reward yourself with a dip in the Grote Vijver. It’s not very deep so it tends to be warm, and this also makes Grote Vijver a great choice for children and anyone who’ would prefer to stay in the shallows.

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Other swimming lakes in Amsterdam with a similar vibe include Sloterplas, Gaasperplas and Nieuwe Meer, but they can get deeper so bring floaties and keep an eye on kids. Out by the lakes it feels like you’re in the country, although you’re only a 20 minutes’ cycle from the heart of the city.

Where to find it: While exploring Amsterdamse Bos, you can’t miss the Grote Vijver. Change on the grass and wade in.

The river: The Amstel

Swimming in a major urban river feels like communing with the city, so slip into the Amstel for a different kind of conversation with Amsterdam. The banks are steep and the water is deep so look for a ladder – there’s a great spot in the Transvaalbuurt neighbourhood where a stretch of water has been cordoned off from the boat lane.

Here, you can swim within sight of city bridges and church spires, after changing on the benches. For a parkland backdrop to your Amstel swim, head a bit further out to Somerlust Park.

Where to find it: Head to Wibautstraat metro stop and walk up to the river – a little further south is the place. Look for the swim ladders.

How to do it

Frequent flights to Amsterdam depart from a choice of London airports, operated by British Airways, KLM or easyJet, with a flight time of about one hour. Direct flights also run from Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh and Newcastle. Eurostar trains to Amsterdam leave from London St Pancras with a travel time of just under five hours.

Where to stay

The Volkshotel is an affordable and buzzy option with food, drink, city views and ample co-working space. Doubles start from £150. The rooftop has a cocktail bar and an outdoor hot tub, and the hotel is close to prime Amstel river swim spots.